I’m working on a big lipstick review right now, and from beneath my neck-high pool of lipstick photos, I just keep thinking… How is the average consumer supposed to know what to do when faced with this many options? Who teaches anyone how to pick a lipstick in a cream finish, a shimmer finish, a dries-matte liquid? How do you know how to translate an arm swatch to a lip swatch?

This is a different post style than I usually use for theNotice, but it covers some of the main thoughts that I’ve had recently about lipsticks. Let me know in the comments or @theNotice if you’d like to see more posts like this!

How to pick a lipstick formula that suits your needs

The beauty industry has changed SO much since I started writing in 2007, but lipsticks are one of the categories that I think have changed the most. When I got into beauty, the big lipsticks of the moment were Maybelline’s Color Sensationals and Revlon’s Super Lustrous Lipsticks. The bold pigmentation of the Color Sensationals and the comfort of the Super Lustrous lipsticks (we all called them “SL”s on forums like MakeupAlley) were the peak of lipstick technology in the drugstore.

Nowadays, you have more to choose from. Traditional lipstick bullets have gotten creamier, more pigmented, and more hydrating. But the lipstick formula options available have really changed, too. Innovations like gel stains and glossy water-stains (which were first seen in the YSL Glossy Stain) came and went—although there are still a few brands who do great versions of this, like Shu Uemura with their Laque Supreme.

Glosses fell somewhat out of favour with time, and oh boy, were liquid lipsticks ever revolutionized.

Older liquid lipstick formulas often came with a gloss end, like this 4-in-1 version from Pür Cosmetics. (They also do a “regular” liquid lipstick!) But most modern liquid lipsticks are a mono-phasic matte, with opaque pigmentation and a kiss-proof finish.

• For matte colour that won’t budge, opt for a liquid lipstick. I really like the ones from Colourpop (review), Maybelline (review), and Smashbox.
• For creamy, wearable colour, try a traditional lipstick bullet. My favourites right now are Lise Watier’s Rouge Gourmand, which I’m reviewing soon. You can’t go wrong with YSL or Bite, either, but remember that a traditional lipstick will transfer.
• Sheer lipsticks are the easiest to find. They’re available from pretty much any brand, and are usually nice and hydrating. For high-end, I always trust YSL (theirs are more hydrating than the cult-followed Dior Addict) and Clinique. Revlon and Burt’s Bees are great drugstore options.

How to pick a lipstick shade

There are very few things that I try to “force” on readers, but this is one of them. If you like it, wear it. Any lip colour instantly becomes the right shade for you the second you decide that you love it.

Beauty is fragile, and subjective, and largely racist anyways, so fuck it. Enjoy the lipstick. If you still want to pursue today’s western beauty ideal, I won’t judge you; I do too. Try adding false lashes or foundation if you’re wearing a really bold or jarring lipstick. A noticeable lipstick is the real-life equivalent of turning up the contrast on your face, so oftentimes, you just need to make the other components a little louder and everything will balance back out.

On the flip side, to pick a lipstick shade that melts into your colouring, simply stick to your colour families.

For warm-toned skin, reach for yellow and red undertones. Choose nude shades that are a little more orange, and red lipsticks in bright, poppy shades. For cool-toned skin, look for blue undertones and “clear” colours. Choose nude shades with a bit of pink in them, and for a red lip, try either a blue-red or a berry-red. Finally, if you’re trying to find out how to choose a lipstick shade for olive skin: go for neutral-leaning lipsticks. Look for nudes with brown (yes, brown!) in them, and bluer reds. Enjoy berry-toned lipsticks, and simply avoid anything really ashy.

When choosing a bold shade…

• I love Maybelline Super Stay Matte Inks and Smashbox Always On Liquid Lipsticks for bold colours that won’t budge.
• If you prefer your big pops of colour in a thicker formula, try the Make Up For Ever Artist Rouge Lipsticks. Their shade range is so much fun, and the texture of the lipsticks helps to hold them in place.
• My absolute favourite lipstick formula right now is the Lise Watier Rouge Gourmand cream-finish formula. These lipsticks are creamy, hydrating, and pigmented—they’re the perfect middle ground. I find them to be a slightly less sticky version of Bite’s Amuse Bouche lipsticks, which are also fantastic!

What makes a great “everyday” lipstick

Growing up, my favourite aunt wore bright red lipstick every single day. She started with really vibrant orange-reds—applied straight from the stick—and switched to MAC Dubonnet through her 40s. Her lipsticks of choice are sheerer and more varied now, but they’re still iconic and red.

She’s an intense person, so her everyday lipsticks have always been equally intense. Mine are more subdued. I’m not a vibrant person; I’m happy staying at home and eating food I haven’t grown myself and not getting clay under my nails.

For an everyday lipstick, choose something that matches you and your lifestyle. For me, that means picking something with medium pigmentation and lots of brown undertones. I tried wearing shades like Burberry Kisses Pink Peony for a while, but even though I’d love to wear Burberry every day (that case! I die), I just can’t do a lot of pink.

The lipsticks and balms that I’m reaching for right now include KISS’ The Scandal Lipstick in Temptation, Dior’s Lip Glow Color Reviver Balm in Berry, and an old YSL lip balm (this is the updated version). They’re absolutely not the lipsticks that I thought would end up living in my purse, but they’re the three that have endured the past six months!

A lipstick’s colour and formula are really what’s going to determine if it’ll work for you, but don’t let these tips act as your sole resource. Check out theNotice’s lip product category for more tips, swatches, and lipstick reviews.

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This post contains affiliate links. The products mentioned here are PR samples, with the exception of the Smashbox, Bite, and Colourpop lipsticks.